Note that no videos were taken on this day for various reasons. However, I invite you to check out this link to see one of my presentations of The X-15 Rocket Plane.

— Day 11: Heading North to Winter Island – Saturday, 14 January 2023 —

The Quark Ultramarine is close by.

The L'Austral is also lurking in our waters.

The very strange looking Ocean Explorer from Vantage Travel.

A humpback whale breaches between our two ships. It is 4:53 am.

Diary Entry 26: Saturday, 14 January 2023

It is 2:00 am and I just took a couple of photos outside that show the lighting conditions, with the Sun just barely below the horizon as we head north from the Antarctic Circle.

Now it is nearly 5:00 am and the sunset has continued all “night” long. Another ship is nearby, off our port. Sort of a strange looking ship, but obviously for tourists as well. At least it is not the Octopus still stalking us. This year the number of tourists visiting Antarctica will exceed 100,000 for the first time, making the environmental protocols ever more important. It is obviously a popular destination, and some of these newer ships make access a lot easier than it has ever been. As this current ship passed us, and I was taking photos, two whales appeared directly between our ships. I may not be getting any sleep, but I am approaching 2,000 photos. I’ll never be able to winnow them down at home as each one is unique and precious to the memory of being here.

Found some friends at breakfast who got shots of the zodiacs that were rescued yesterday. Hopefully they can send them to me once I’m home.

Breakfast was interesting in that our sister ship, the World Navigator, went sailing close by. That was an extra added treat. Much, much closer than yesterday, so got some nice shots. Another ship is out there on the horizon, but can’t tell if it is the Ultramarine or not. (Just found out it is the L’Astral.)

A lonely flight across the ice.

Looks like the clouds have moved in to give these mountains protective hats.

Close-up of the mountain and its hat from above right.

The ice barrier.

The beauty in Antarctica is unparalled. The rest of the world seems mundane in comparison.

Wisps of cloud across the landscape in the perpetual sunset.

Everywhere we look, more strange and bizarre landscapes.

Our sister ship, the World Navigator, the first ship from Atlas Ocean Voyages.

Her first season was 2021, while the World Traveller made her first commercial voyage on 20 November 2022. Ours was only her sixth passenger cruise.

The World Navigator sails by in the Penola Strait, as an expedition crew member, in the foreground at left, sets up a kayaking group for the World Traveller guests.

— Day 11: Wordie House, Our Final Antarctic Landing – Saturday, 14 January 2023 —

Our map shows the final landing location at Winter Island.

Special features at Winter Island include Wordie House.

Diary Entry 27: Saturday, 14 January 2023

Let’s talk about our final landing in Antarctica. This was probably the best landing, in that it was relatively easily accessible, and also one of the most interesting from so many points of view. On our way across from the ship, we went by a Gentoo penguin rookery. Lots of penguins on the rocks, which is always fun to watch (but not to smell!). The main idea of this landing on Winter Island was to check out the Wordie House, also known at British Base “F,” which was built in 1935 as a British research/military site. It was named in honor of Sir James Wordie from Shackleton’s Endurance expedition.

We had an extremely long wait to go ashore because only 36 people could be on the island at a time, and only 12 in the actual hut at a time. Group C was the second to last to go today. I was able to fully suit up on my own, which was a first. Usually, with so much on, with layers of clothing, a life vest, etc., I can‘t get something hooked correctly, or get the parka zipper up without crossthreading. Not to mention getting the muck boots on!

On the zodiac trip to Winter Island, we sailed by an active Ukrainian research station, which is where Sasha spent 5 years of his life. It is the Vernadsky Station, and it is very well kept, and in the process of modernization, so a lot of construction materials were seen. Had no idea we'd actually get to see his base, so that was just a wonderful surprise! I understand that Sasha was able to drop by and see some old friends and colleagues. And if they weren’t friends before, they were after he dropped off fresh fruit and some new libations, such as Vodka.

The landing itself was very easy, comparatively-speaking, and just a short walk to the Wordie House. We had to wait outside while others were still inside. That worked to our advantage as a group of penguins went sailing by, then jumped up on the rocks to check us out. They just stared at us for a long time, then dove back in, and disappeared.

On the way to the hut there were several Weddell seals basking in the Sun, then we saw an Elephant seal all by itself, on an inlet at the back side of the hut. Once inside, it was a really wonderful treat. It is much older than the one on Detaille Island, but there was lots more light, since the windows had not been boarded up. It was much easier to see our way about, and to take photos. No girlie magazines this time, but they did have typewriters, which, as a writer, is always cool. One of our party remarked that it was the same type of typewriter that she first learned on.

After touring the station, and signing their log book (another small bit of me left behind), I headed back toward the zodiac landing spot, and finally did something I wanted to do for the whole trip: I got a sample of Antarctica. I had thought of taking a soil sample, but there hasn’t been anything but rocks, ice, and snow. So, I dipped my film can and filled it to the brim with a snow sample, since that was the easiest thing to gather. I'm sure I'm breaking some sort of rule, but it just seemed like the right thing to do. Now, in my cabin, the snow is fully melted of course, and only now fills about 2/3rds of the film can, but it is crystal clear, and it is my special souvenir of Antarctica to take home and set on the shelf. The sample was taken at 65°15’S by 64°16’W at 10:30 am Argentine Time.

Got into the zodiac, and appropriately, our driver was Sasha for the final return journey to the ship. He first took us over to see the Elephant seal, who was dozing in the shallow water. When we got close, the seal opened those doe eyes, and you could see that he was just trying to figure out who we were, what we might want, and did he even need to care. As we left, he simply closed his eyes, and was immediately back asleep. Then we headed back to the World Traveller, by doing a complete circle around the island, including actually driving over the center of an iceberg with a melt lake in the middle! The turquoise below us as we passed, was unbelievable.

Got some nice shots of the ship from the outside for the last time, before docking and being helped aboard. Then, I was worried about time because of my upcoming X-15 talk. I still had more than an hour, so I dove into the shower for a long, final Antarctic respite, and a good shampoo. Afterward, I even broke out the hair dryer so I wouldn’t look like a drowned rat when I did my presentation. So nice to be fully clean again. I doubt I will have another opportunity once we hit the Drake.

Penguins everywhere.

An Antarctic emblem on a Vernadsky Station building.

"Ukrainian Antarctic Expedition." (Thanks, Jerry!)

Swooping up out of the water, a penguin appears to body surf for a moment, before plunging back down into the frigid sea.

Several islands, and the ice barrier in the distance. There is a tiny spot of land at the left in the above image. In the inset (L), you can see some sort of remote station is there.

We had to sail around Galindez Island to get to our goal of Winter Island.

This is the home of the Ukrainian Vernadsky Research Base, where our expedition crew member Sasha used to be stationed. It is also home to a Gentoo penguin rookery.

Approaching Vernadsky Base.

The Gentoos inhabit most of the available rocky land near the base.

A panorama that shows much of the large extent of the Ukrainian base. Lots of construction materials and equipment are in evidence as they are upgrading the base.

The main building at Vernadsky.

Ocean expeditions, to check on wildlife and ice extent, are launched from here.

A storage tank advertises the base's name. Note the peace sign and palm trees.

After rounding Galindez Island, we finally come to Winter Island, and the abandoned British Base F (which also goes by Faraday Station).

The structure has been nicknamed Wordie House, in honor of James Wordie who was with Ernest Shackleton on the infamous 1914 to 1917 Endurance expedition.

Moments from landfall on Winter Island.

We are "greeted" by two Weddell seals, that couldn't have cared less that we have invaded their personal island.

Around the side of Wordie House.

This sequence of 6 images shows an assault on Base F, but not by humans. This time it was a group of Gentoo penguins who came ashore en masse to see who was invading their territory. It was amazing and fun to watch this all unfold as they swam around the island, then emerged on the rocky shore. Once there, they just stood and stared at our group of interloppers. Eventually, they all turned around, and jumped back into the water, satisfied we had no ill intent on their base.

The entrance into Wordie House. How many scientists, researchers, and tourists have passed through this door in the decades since it was first constructed?

Continuing around Base F.

The door plaque describes the fascinating history of this historic location.

Several bunks are just off the kitchen. Hard to sleep when meals were being cooked.

Some of the many canned goods, and other sundries, that were never consumed.

A penguin and seal are used to entice base personnel to draw a glass of Guinness.

A work table and chairs, with the station's guest logbook.

Some of the logbook entries for 14 January 2023, including my own info, with initials.

The living room with a library, a radio, and more importantly, the heater.

Another angle that shows the bunks near the kitchen.

A raincoat and guitar. Wonder what tunes were played on those dark winter nights.

As an author, I love old typewriters. Here is one of several I saw at the base.

A quartermaster's report on the condition of received supplies, that was left behind.

The double-layered window boxes that would help insulate against the outside cold.

Another group of visitors awaits their turn to go inside.

Back outside, reluctantly heading toward my zodiac pickup.

The lone Elephant seal that we saw on this trip. It was in the shallows across a small inlet from Winter Island and Wordie House.

A large, yet beautiful creature, that, like pretty much all Antarctic life we encountered, was indifferent to our human presence.

Driving between islands. We will soon pass over the iceberg in the distance.

Yet another bizarre, water-sculpted berg.

A look back: Sasha just drove our zodiac across this iceberg that has partially melted, to now have two distinct sections, with a turquoise lake in the middle.

Strutting for attention, but no one seems to notice.

The youngster appears taken aback, but Mama remains aloof.

Helping to upkeep the nest while Mama keeps the kids warm.

Two families check out each others accommodations.

A proper send off from another friendly Gentoo penguin.

Coming home for our final boarding.

My film can filled with Antarctic snow that I collected outside Wordie House.

Even melted, it will always be my ultimate souvenir from this continent.

Approaching our ship after our last excursion.

A last panorama from the Antarctic.

— Day 11: The X-15 Rocket Plane – Saturday, 14 January 2023 —

Diary Entry 28: Saturday, 14 January 2023

It is now 12:46 pm on Saturday, 14 January 2023, and we have just hoisted anchor, and are moving north again after leaving our final shore stop at Wordie House. Our next stop will be Ushuaia in just under 3 days time (much longer than our Drake Passage journey south). And right now, I am ready to head forward, where I will be doing my X-15 talk in just more than an hour. Michael wanted me there a half hour ahead of time to make sure everything got set up on time, and there were no connection problems. I had everything up and running before he even arrived to check things out.

I completed my talk, and made it back here to my stateroom. Actually had a pretty big crowd in the theater, plus more were watching throughout the ship on the video channel. The rolling of the ship was a very, shall I say, unique and interesting way to do a talk. I am very glad I did not embarrass myself up there at the podium, but I was definitely holding on for dear life at times. So the talk itself was a bit rocky because of that, but I did make it through. The reception was great, and many people asked great questions, and also wanted book and business cards. The biggest problem was that so many people wanted to stop and talk as I was making my way back to the room, when all I wanted to do was set everything down and crawl into bed before losing breakfast!

Have to be sure to update my X-15 presentation page on the web site when I get home to reflect 120 talks and 5 continents!

My presentation of "The X-15 Rocket Plane, Flying the First Wings into Space" was given at 2:00 pm on Saturday, 14 January 2023, in the Vasco da Gama Theater aboard the cruise ship, World Traveller, at a latitude of approximately 65°S.

This was my first time doing this presentation in the Antarctic, but was the 120th time I have spoken about my book before an audience. A copy of my book is at the podium.

A last look at the 7th continent as we started to head back north toward Ushuaia, Argentina. What an amazing, and life-changing, trip this has been.

One aspect of the X-15 that made this a special occasion is that there is a connection between the X-15 and Antarctica. It is a small connection, but nonetheless it is there.

It is in the form of the book: Mike Mars, South Pole Spaceman, by Donald A. Wollheim. I brought this book with me on my cruise to Antarctica, along with a copy of my own book, and also the February 1963 issue of National Geographic.

Diary Entry 29: Saturday, 14 January 2023

Several hours later, I decided to brave the rolling ship, and wander up to see Michael about getting some extra copies of our ship's newsletter, the Daily Traveller, as souvenirs with my talk listed on it. I also ran into a lot more people who kept telling me how much they loved my talk, so that was neat. When I exited the stairway onto Deck 4 near the Lisboa restaurant, two Chinese women stopped me to ask if I was the writer. I said that yes I was the author, and so they wanted selfies with me! Now that I’m sort of famous on the ship, I won’t be able to talk to most people as I hide from the rolling seas in my stateroom. And at Paula’s Pantry they were serving slices of pepperoni pizza! Hadn’t expected that, and very neat to now say that I’ve had pizza in the Antarctic as well. The perfect end to the perfect day—if I can keep it down.

Used my sunglasses only once on the whole trip. Hadn’t expected that. I did get some sunburn, and almost certainly some of that is wind burn as well.

Had a tiny dinner of tomato soup—again. Got back to my room after being bounced off the walls down the corridors. Nice surprise on the bed when I returned. I now have my official “Order of the Red Nose” certificate, signed by our captain, for crossing the Antarctic Circle. Glad that they acknowledged that special occasion for the passengers. Have to find a place on the wall in my office for that.

A map that shows our entire voyage, including crossing the Drake Passage, all of our stops along the Antarctic Peninsula, and crossing the Antarctic Circle.

My official certificate from Atlas Ocean Voyages, acknowledging my inclusion in the "Order of the Red Nose." This signifies that I have crossed below the latitude of 66° South.

It is signed by Vitaliy Tsylke, Captain of the World Traveller.

Note that no videos were taken on this day for various reasons. However, I invite you to check out this link to see one of my presentations of The X-15 Rocket Plane.