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I waited 60 years to make my first expedition to Antarctica, as you can see and read about in the documentation of that first trip on my site. It affected me more than I ever realized it would, and I immediately wanted to return. However, I figured that I had already paid my dues by traversing the Drake Passage — twice! If I went again I would need to fly to Antarctica. I doubted that would be possible, so the dream of a second sojourn drifted into the background of my life. But then, less than a year later, a notice from Quark Expeditions dropped into my Inbox with an amazing offer: No single supplement, plus a hefty discount, on a Fly-The-Drake package! I guess this second trip to the White Continent was meant to be after all.
On 13 September 2023, I made my reservation, and the clock started ticking toward leaving fifteen months later on 18 December 2024. This time, instead of going through Argentina, I was to go to Punta Arenas, Chile, which is where Antarctic Airways operates its fleet of BAe-146s that fly across the Drake in just two hours instead of sailing across in more than two agonizing days. I normally fly American Airlines, but in this case it was easier to book through LATAM in order to have a non-stop flight from Los Angeles to Santiago, Chile, then, a same airline connection on to Punta Arenas.
Join me on my second frozen voyage of discovery to Antarctica. |
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— Days 1 to 3: LAX to Punta Arenas, Chile – Wednesday to Friday, 18 to 20 December 2024 — |
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My ship for this voyage was the World Explorer, operated by Quark Expeditions. There are currently four ships of this type operating in the polar regions. All are owned by Mystic Cruises, while one is leased from Quark, and the other three by Atlas Ocean Voyages. The World Explorer was the first in this fleet, follwed by the World Navigator, World Traveller, and World Voyager. My first trip to Antarctica in December 2023 was with Atlas aboard the World Traveller. |
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Quark's image of my Infinity Suite room. On this voyage I had cabin 544. |
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Diary Entry 1: Wednesday, 18 December 2024
The flight to Santiago was a long one, but reasonably comfortable. Didn't have the personal cubicles like on American for my last trip to South America, but still had lots of leg room and lie-flat seats. Of course I couldn't sleep on the plane, which is normal. Watched several movies, and now 5 hours ahead of Pacific Time, so my clock it messed up, but same as last time. It took 2.5 hours to get through Passport Control, Customs, get my checked bag, transfered to the domestic terminal, get checked in, and seated at the gate for my flight to Punta Arenas. I cannot say enough nice things about the people who helped me, in getting from my arrival gate until I was at the gate for my second departure. They are the "Mobility Group," and wear yellow shirts so they are easily visible. Every one of them was wonderful and amazing. It took more than an hour just to get through Passport Control (only 1 officer!), yet the woman who ushered me through was magnificent and friendly the whole time. And she, nor any of the others from the Mobility Group would take any tips! |
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On my way back to Antarctica. Pushing from the gate at the Bradley Terminal at LAX. |
Beautiful clear skies as we round the corner at Palos Verdes. |
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The Long Beach harbor area. |
The Queen Mary and Spruce Goose Dome. |
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Over central Baja California, dusk is setting in. Most of the trip south will be in the dark. |
Passing Guadalajara, Mexico. Last time I was here was in December 1968. |
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Soon after dawn on 19 December on final approach to Santiago, Chile. |
The Santiago airport with its wave front terminal gates. |
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Diary Entry 2: Thursday, 19 December 2024
The flight from Santiago to Punta Arenas was only 3 hours, but we boarded almost an hour before scheduled departure, then they were an hour late with take off, so it was more than 5 hours in a very cramped "Premium Economy" seat. My legs are really messed up, especially since I was in row 1 and had a bulkhead right in front of me. The engine sounds on the A321 made it sound like I was inside a swarm of bees all the way south. The worst part for me was that the window at my seat was fogged over, so no photos of the trip south. Very disappointed. We had a lot of rough winds and turbulence, literally right through touchdown. Very bumpy flight and landing. But from the time I exited the plane, it took only an amazing 10 minutes to get me to baggage claim, pick up my bag, get a taxi, and head to the Dreams Hotel. The taxi driver was excellent, and got me there very quickly. At the hotel, a guy met us at the taxi, and helped me all the way through check in and to my room, again sans tip! Everyone has been very helpful, friendly, and most definitely courteous, so no complaints at all on that score.
My room is 1001, and looks out over the very colorful city. It is a beautiful hotel and I think it will be a nice two day stay (and one more on the return leg). Looking forward to doing some exploring tomorrow. Looks like I can do my sightseeing just walking around the waterfront near the hotel. Lots of murals that I saw on the drive in, so that's cool, and I'm really looking forward to seeing the memorial to the captain of the Yelcho that saved Shackleton. It's a short walk north from here. The temp is 51F, so I'll definitely be wearing my jacket tomorrow. In the room the temp was about 85! Finally got that all figured out to bring the temp down to a reasonable level. There is no AC in the hotel above the 8th floor, but there is a wall radiator for heat, which is definitely not needed with the Sun pounding the windows. Had to turn off the radiator, turn on the fan, then got the window opened to cool things down somewhat. |
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The Hotel Dreams del Estrecho in Punta Arenas, Chile, overlooking the Straight of Magellan. |
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Room 1001 at the Dreams Hotel, with my much needed fan. |
A picture window into the bathroom in my hotel room. Interesting. |
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The starry night ceiling of the hotel lobby. |
The Christmas tree and Quark welcome sign at hotel reception. |
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A self portrait soon after getting settled in my room. |
Auntie Arctica, Opus, and Infy, along with a very special penguin card from Cherie. |
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The view from my hotel window into the downtown area of Punta Arenas. |
During the very short night, this was the view of the wharf area outside the hotel. |
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Diary Entry 3: Friday, 20 December 2024
Just got back from breakfast. They had scrambled eggs and bacon, but it was not as good as it sounds in that they barely cooked either of them. Had the same thing in Buenos Aires in 2023, so I guess it is standard here in South America to not thoroughly cook these things. The eggs are extremely runny, and the barely-cooked bacon looks more like tiny pieces of chopped up ham. Also, ice or cold drinks are not available, as far as I can tell. The milk is room temp, so not very refreshing. Similar to what I experienced in Turkey. Other than that, the hotel is really great.
I had hoped to maybe go out and check out the sky last night. Unfortunately, that didn't work out. I forgot that it is summer in high latitudes, so the Sun set around midnight, and there was still color in the sky nearly all night. Then it was full Sun by about 5:00 am or so. Much further south than when I got to see the upside down Moon from Buenos Aires, and we are almost at midsummer (tomorrow). When I got up this morning, I immediately went to the window, as I always do, to see what is happening outside. Directly up the hill from the hotel, I saw a small rainbow. It was barely visible, and was only a small portion near the ground. Went back more than an hour later, and it was still there, which surprised me a lot. But then it disappeared soon after. A bit weird. Might have to do with the Sun's position in the sky this far south, that it didn't move much during that time.
Today I'll walk around Punta Arenas as much as I can to see things like the Yelcho monument. The Quark check-in room opens at noon, so I want to be there pretty soon after they open to again press for a window seat on the flight south on Saturday. |
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Starting my walk around Punta Arenas, and looking back at my hotel. My room was at the far right on the 8th level as seen from here. |
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The faint rainbow on the hill as seen from my window. |
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Diary Entry 4: Friday, 20 December 2024
I went for a walk to the Plaza de Armas Munoz Camero, and also walked around some of the blocks in that area. As I headed toward the park, it started to rain! I turned around to go back to the hotel, but then it let up, so I decided to head back up to the park. As I arrived a drum band set up and started playing at the base of the monument to Magellan. Fun to watch and listen. Headed back down to the waterfront, then went north up the beach to the Piloto Pardo (Yelcho) monument. This stretch of beach front is called the Costanera del Estrecho (Coastline of the Straits), and is home to dozens of monuments. Of course, after the Yelcho, I had to keep going, and ended up walking maybe 3/4 of a mile up to see some other monuments, including a giant one called simply Circunnavegacion, in honor of Magellan's circumnavigation of the globe from 1519-1522. So, all together, I guess I went at least a couple of miles just now. The weather is around 50F, but the wind is blowing very hard. Heading up the beach wasn't too bad, but as soon as I got far away from the hotel, and decided to turn around and come back south, then I really felt the wind. I was very stupid and did not wear my wool hat. I saw three major monuments along the beach, and also the giant "Punta Arenas" sign. On the way up, no one was around, but on the way back, someone was there, and he kindly took my photo in front of the sign. Glad I was able to get that, but even more glad when I got back to the protection of the hotel! Now it is about time to head downstairs and start my check in with Quark. |
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The Punta Arenas government building. |
The Plaza Hotel, across the street from Plaza de Armas Munoz Camero. |
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Statue commemorating Magellan and his accomplishments in Plaza Camero. |
An interesting tree reaches many fingers to the sky. |
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Monument to the captain of the Yelcho, Luis Pardo, who was able to take Ernst Shackleton back to Elephant Island and save the rest of his crew on 30 August 1916. |
Monument to the Crew of the Schooner Ancud. It is dedicated to the takeover of the Strait of Magellan by Chile on 21 September 1843. |
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Close up of the statue of Captain Luis Pardo of the Yelcho. He stands on a map of Antarctica and points the way to Elephant Island. |
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Statue of Ferdinand Magellan. |
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Large monument to the first circumnavigation of the world by Magellan |
Relaxing in the high winds at the Punta Arenas sign. |
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Diary Entry 5: Friday, 20 December 2024
Went down to the second floor in order to check in for my Quark Fly-the-Drake Antarctic Expedition. Everything went well, and no problems with my luggage, so very happy about that. The weight restrictions were extreme for this trip, and I worked hard to get everything packed that I needed, and still meet the weight. I now have my muck boots and parka, and everything is good to go. Next up is our briefings at 6:00 pm this evening, followed by a group dinner at 7:00 pm. It is now just past 1:00 pm. I am in Group 2 for the flight tomorrow, and the seating is not assigned, so it will be luck of the draw to get that window seat. The Quark lady said that there is nothing to see on the flight, but we'll just have to check it our for myself. Of course, if nothing else, I want to thumb my nose at the Drake! Took another excursion out on the town, and went to a souvenir shop.
This evening we had our final briefing, then the group dinner. I am number 13 on flight Quark 2 on Saturday. Have to report by 7:00 am for the bus to the airport, then a hopeful 9:30 am departure across the Drake, weather permitting.
Dinner was great. I didn't eat a lot, but the others at my table were all very nice. There was a couple from Melbourne (Bruce and Elizabeth), a lady from Salt Lake City, another lady from Colorado, and one more with her two daughters, also from Colorado. Hopefully I'll see then all again, and get down their names as it was a bit hard to hear, and I wasn't able to catch them all at the table. The lady from SLC even knew about the X-15, and the first lady from Colorado met Neil Armstrong when she was a kid. Cool. |
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The muck boot stockpile in the Quark meeting room. |
Handing out the Antarctic parkas. |
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Large banners covered a back wall corner to hide all the luggage left behind by the group that is currently in Antarctica. They return the same day we arrive. |
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Back in my room with muck boots and parka, but the kids won't let me near them. |
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Patagonia Bus line has a wonderful penguin motiff. Taken from my 10th floor window |
A huge and beautiful lenticular cloud just south of the hotel. |
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YouTube Video Links: |
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